A gateway to heaven ....

During our travels over the last few years I seem to have become fascinated by, of all things, cemeteries !!

They are amazingly peaceful places, as (obviously!!) the only activity is the odd visitor who comes to tend a grave, to change the flowers, to sit and quietly chat with their family members.

Apart from these then there is the occasional person like me who just wanders around rather aimlessly but with great fascination and a sense of awe really.

Well, at least I do.

view from ancient castle

The first cemetery which really affected me emotionally was a world war one in northern France.

It was quite simple but those rows and rows of small white crosses were incredibly moving and terribly sad as each one represented a young man who had died tragically in the war.


A waste of youth and life that they had no choice in really.

It made me angry and the sense of horror and loss overwhelmed me at the same time. Grim.


The square

Anyway, it seems that wherever we go, if there is cemetery nearby I'll be happy there for a while !

I invariably also have a little cry but then almost anything can bring me to tears and it is not always sadness.


While on holiday in Portugal earlier this year I discovered this beautiful cemetery - well it was the gates and the view which first drew me as I didn't know what it was to start with !

So while Philip went off exploring the back streets of Idanha Nova I went admiring.

The entrance was very dramatic with the most wonderfully simple stylistic carving on the huge gate posts and a couple of trees on either side.



Even before I knew where it led to I had joked that it was like the gateway to heaven.... as the view in the distance was to die for ....!! but in this case literally.



I could have sat in the square, outside the old church and just gazed at the breathtaking view for ever it felt.

 

Inside was calm orderliness, rows and rows of graves of different styles and sizes, some being just locked chests on the outside walls but with some avenues of incredibly sumptuous family tombs .

I could almost feel the competitiveness of the families coming out here or was it simply the mark of respect for one's elders, who knows ?

I actually had a peep inside one marble monstrosity and to my shock there were rows of coffins (I counted 7) all on shelves at the sides and all in good order.

The older ones were the most ornate with inlay work and brass fittings, well, I figured they were the older ones simply because of all the skilled work in their construction.

I am sure that level of craftsmanship would be beyond the average carpenter's capability these days and horrendously expensive if it were available. They were almost works of art as were the tombs themselves.

One thing I noticed in particular was how colourful and cheerful looking it all was.

There were masses of bright silk flowers everywhere, some in pots but most were in vases and also, of course, a profusion of fresh flowers. 

There was a sheltered area set aside by the little chapel for the arranging of the flowers with a tap for fresh water and a small compost area.

Seating in the shade was provided too so you could just sit down quietly and contemplate.

Everything was thought through and prepared for.

Orderliness - to my mind this is a comfort what with the randomness of life itself !

Probably why I am attracted to these places so much ?

　

　

　

　

　

　

　

　

　

　

The Italian Riviera

Coming to Portofino here was the perfect ending to a busy day, well, almost the ending....


We had travelled down to Genoa from Rovegno, high up in the Trebbia valley, where we were camped up for the Italian 5 day Apenine orienteering competitions.


Hubby in his sprinting gear - ready for the off with the old port (now massively renovated  and touristified ! ) in the background.

 Genoa was where the sprint event was to be held, and we made our way, after a very early start and another tortuous drive, to the old port area of the city.

Parking was actually far easier than we'd imagined it would be - even here they had a modern underground carpark. Phew.. a bit of sixties spaghetti junction type drive into it but we managed.


Phil really is an amazingly calm and competent driver, like his mother was in her time.



The old port area was quite delightful and full of cafes, bars, bijou shops, strollers, runners and of course some quite amazing private yachts.


 There was even a viewing platform (basically a huge round smart lift with all round windows) which you could pay to go up in and view the port from.


Phil did his sprint in really good time but sadly missed out one control which disqualified him !!


This was really dissapointing as the sprints really are his best chances of a gong!!


Well, these events were a practice for the World Masters in reality - and better to make the mistakes now... we really really hope this will be a good learning practice for the real thing.



After the run, we wander round the narrow streets (the sprint map did come in really useful here as it is all such a tight maze) finding a most amazing chocolate shop en route.


  Well, we just had to buy a few; all were handmade and were delicious looking.

As lunchtime hits us we settle in amidst all the workers at a little restaurant in one of the squares.

All very Italian !!




More wandering and more gawping at the mixture of magnificence and decrepitude.



 This old part of the town reminded me a lot of Venice, the buildings look grim on the outside but are quite beautiful once inside !





Late afternoon we head back to the car, and start on the short journey down towards Portofino.



We decide to take the coastal road which is rambling but with views to die for and we just have to stop now and then a take a few snaps !!



The drive along the seafront from Santa Margarhita to Portofino was a bit of a nightmare as it is so narrow and drivers belt along as if there were no overhanging cliffs in the way or possible oncoming buses or just very narrow twisty bits of road for us to manoeuvre along.







Again we find an underground car park in the small village (extortionately expensive of course) pack our little haversack with swimming things and head off ...


We are here for a very specific reason this time. Over the years we have been to Liguria and Portofino many times, but as a holiday sightseeing sort of thing.

 I spent my 50th birthday at a little beach round the corner from Portofino called Piaggio where we also hired canoes for fun. 

 

This time we are here to scatter some of the saved ashes of Valerie Eeles(Philip's mother who sadly died last year).  Most of her ashes had been scattered at a family gathering in Wiltshire but we'd carried a jarfull with us in the caravan . Philip had planned to do his own scattering here in Italy where she'd lived as a child and young woman.

  Philip had probably been conceived in Santa Margherita so it was especially relevant for him to be here in this area.


We wandered through the village and headed up the steep steps towards the headland past Castel Brown. Hopefully we'd find a peaceful spot. In fact at the end of the track was a little cafe bar and also a military watchpoint. Not quite suitable we felt, so, backtracked till we did find a quiet sheltered spot with the most marvellous views.



Philip felt comfortable there and so did the scattering, again saving a few handfuls to scatter at sea down in a little bay where we had a swim afterwards. All very emotional for us both.


I actually knew Valerie longer than my own mother who died when I was 36 yrs old so she was a major influence in my life really and I miss her but we talk about her fondly a lot which is good and comforting.
 

Afterwards we stopped briefly at the house in Via Trippoli in Santa Margarhita where Valerie used to come and stay with Uberto Pallastrelli in the early 50s. It has been renovated and a swimming pool built in the garden but a lot of the garden is still semi wild.
 

As it was by now getting rather late we chose to take the shortest route back to the campsite and wow, it was quite a drive !! Along the most narrow twisty stretches of roads high up in the Ligurian mountains.


The views were quite incredible but my poor little camera could hardly cope with the gloom unfortunately.

It seemed to take forever to do just a few kilometres as we were wending our way carefully around the side of the mountainous valleys.


 The word careful is very pertinent as the Italian drivers seem quite shocked to see anyone else on their roads and always drive in the middle of the road seemingly as a matter of principle !! so the need is to be wary and prepared.....

We arrived back at the site, rather weary after such a long day's travel and in need of a soothing glass of wine and a nibble. 


The restaurant at the site was still open and they could offer us a pizza as the wood fired oven was still hot enough. Quite delicious and helped down with a half litre of their red house wine (which came in a carafe and was on draught!).

All the excitement, emotion, and eventual weariness meant that we were well and truly ready for our rest that night. Thankfully it was a peaceful campsite and we soon fell into a deep slumber.



Nothing like being worn out to ensure a good night's sleep.