Monsanto



Dwarfed !

This is the most incredible village that I have ever been to in my life so far. It has so much character and is quite incredibly quirky !!

The first time we went there, we parked in the lower village and walked up the main road as it zigged and zagged up the steep mountain side. Even
 at this  stage the boulders were immense....


There was a reason for our being there - an orienteering sprint race around the village and surrounding hillside was to be held late afternoon and so we were doing a 'recce' as well as sight seeing.

The village seems to be have been built in and around and under the huge huge boulders perched on the mountainside. These could never be moved due to their size and so the people just built where they could and left the stones standing.

 It makes for an amazing sight as quite a few of these boulders are larger than the houses!



A lot of the cottages have been renovated and tarted up but an awful lot are almost semi-derelict and just crying out for some tender care.....

The views are wide ranging from most of the village, but from the ancient ruins of the Knights Templar castle on the very top they were breathtaking.

We could see down to the lake where we were camped up easily and probably over to Spain as well.


A whole new meaning to 'infill' !

On our second visit, which was much more relaxed, we spent more time rambling all over as time was not as issue. The second viewing was just as exciting as we explored some different part of the village and this time I ventured right up to the top of the hill - the view was a big draw !!

The is a village of steps, steps and more steps !! Lots of twists and turns and tucked away little corners.

 I even found a tiny garden hidden between boulders - I'd sat awhile, on a handy boulder (what else ?), catching my breath and was watching an elderly lady come back and forth with a watering can. Eventually she pulled a sort of makeshift fence/gate to and sallied forth home. I had a peek over the gate - broad beans in full growth and a few olive trees. A tiny space, well tended and productive despite being amongst the boulders.

 A natural shelter belt and all the heat absorbed by those giant boulders would have been freed in the cool of the evenings.


One of the quirkiest things we found were the old pig styes - at least that's what we reckoned they were in the end. Right at the top of the village, and again built in and around the boulders and all made of stone - of course. Very rudimentary but adequate. Each sty had a small yard, a water trough and a little stone house with a domed stone roof which had been turfed over by time.


None of them was in use now, sadly. So much easier to pop down the supermarket for some pork chops ?

The only livestock we saw up there was a single chicken caged in one of the disused styes and  a small herd of goats - some of which were fettered but despite this managed to scramble along and rocks and walls. Qute a feat really.

We had a coffee and cake in one of the little cafes and they asked us if we'd like to go outside on to the terrace. Goodness me - it was built onto one of the giant boulders and we had to scramble up the steps get to the eyrie!! Felt like being on top of the world. I was most uncomfortable despite the addition of a little stone wall and a hand rail around us.

I was practically hanging on to the table to make sure I didn't fall off the boulder into the street below.
 Best almond and walnut cake I've ever eaten though, really moist and light. Yum.

On our second trip we were lucky enough to come accross a local singing and dancing troop - they were all dressed in costumes for a photoshoot on the wide communal terrace. No performance sadly though.

 One of the older ladies balanced a huge arrangement of flowers on her head and was walking comfortably around with it perched there. Quite a sight.

One thing I noticed in particular was the abundance of terraces and stone benches outside the doorways. Obviously a very communal style of life must have been led here in Portugal. It is often warmer in the sun outdoors than tucked away in an unheated house and a good chat can be fun and companionable, and of course these days the tourists are a great source of amusement !!



The ultimate roof insulation !!??

We have not come accross any central heating anywhere here, and most people just wear their coats when indoors even when working!! Museums, art galleries, shops, cafes etc - all are quite cool this time of year.
 Now, in mid-summer that is probably a blessing ?

Wish we had that problem here in Britain !!